Day 6 – Bulgaria Steals My Heart – Cleared For Take-Off!

I woke up a little earlier than I had planned this morning, but after such a restful night’s sleep aboard the Avalon Passion, I certainly wasn’t complaining. After another wonderful breakfast, complete with a traditional Eggs Benedict with a bright, lemony hollandaise sauce, we boarded our coach for today’s full-day excursion through Bulgaria.

As we pulled away from the ship, I glanced back at the Danube and immediately noticed something that surprised me. The river was an incredible shade of blue. I don’t remember it looking this blue when I sailed the Danube during the Christmas Markets a few years ago. The famous “Blue Danube Waltz” had been playing in my head all morning, and somehow the color of the water made the music seem even more fitting.

Then we began driving through the Bulgarian countryside.

Almost immediately I realized this country was going to surprise me.

Rolling hills stretched to the horizon, broken only by golden wheat fields and enormous fields of sunflowers that seemed to go on forever. Every few miles another sea of bright yellow appeared outside the bus window. It was one of those landscapes that photographs simply can’t do justice.

I’d never realized just how important sunflowers are to Bulgaria. The country is one of Europe’s largest producers of sunflower seeds, and the flowers are grown primarily for sunflower oil, which is a staple in Bulgarian kitchens. The seeds are also roasted for snacks, used in breads and pastries, and even exported around the world. Seeing field after field made perfect sense once I learned how significant they are to the country’s agriculture.

Our first stop was the historic village of Arbanassi, a place that once served as a prosperous home for wealthy merchants during the Bulgarian Renaissance. Before exploring, we stopped at a beautiful stone building where we had a chance to sample a few local treats and stretch our legs.

Outside stood a statue of one of Bulgaria’s medieval kings, a reminder that this small village has witnessed centuries of history.

Inside, we sampled some traditional Bulgarian specialties. First came a taste of rose brandy.

Let’s just say…it was definitely not for me.

The rose liqueur, however, was an entirely different story. Sweet, floral, and almost nectar-like, it was surprisingly delicious. I also sampled two varieties of Turkish Delight. The rose-flavored version was pleasant enough, but the orange Turkish Delight was absolutely my favorite.

Before leaving, I couldn’t resist bringing home a few Bulgarian souvenirs. A bottle of the rose liqueur found its way into my shopping bag, along with a jar of traditional Bulgarian rose jam, another specialty made from the fragrant petals of the famous Damask roses grown throughout the country’s Rose Valley.

Our next stop was the Church of the Nativity, one of Arbanassi’s hidden treasures.

From the outside, the church appears surprisingly plain and almost fortress-like. During centuries of Ottoman rule, Christian churches were not permitted to be taller or more elaborate than surrounding buildings, so many were intentionally built to blend into the village.

As I walked toward the entrance, something unexpected happened.

The boxwoods lining the stone pathway released a familiar fragrance in the warm morning sun. Instantly I was transported back to my dad’s grandparents’ house, where large boxwoods lined the front walk. It was amazing how one simple scent, halfway around the world, could unlock memories from childhood that I hadn’t thought about in years.

Inside the church, photography wasn’t allowed, and honestly, that’s probably for the best.

Nearly every inch of the walls and ceilings is covered with remarkable frescoes depicting thousands of biblical scenes and saints. Built in the 15th century, it’s one of those places where you simply stand quietly and absorb what you’re seeing.

From there we visited the Konstantsalieva House, a beautifully preserved merchant’s home dating from the 17th century. Walking through its rooms offered a fascinating glimpse into life several hundred years ago. One detail especially caught my attention. The house actually had two bathrooms, something incredibly rare for a private home of that period and a sign of the family’s remarkable wealth.

After touring the house, we wandered into a nearby shop where we continued sampling local products before climbing back aboard the coach for the drive to Veliko Tarnovo.

Lunch featured several Bulgarian specialties.

We began with a fresh salad of cucumbers, tomatoes, roasted peppers, and a creamy white cheese similar to feta, although made from cow’s milk instead of sheep’s milk. It was easily my favorite part of the meal.

Next came mushroom soup, followed by skewered pork served with potatoes. It was all very good, but that fresh Bulgarian salad was outstanding. The pork needed some barbecue sauce or Heinz 57!

After lunch, we strolled along Veliko Tarnovo’s artisan street, browsing shops filled with handcrafted pottery, wood carvings, textiles, and local artwork. Of course, we eventually found ourselves at a gelato shop overlooking the city.

I ordered the salty caramel, and with that incredible view stretching across the hillsides, it was the perfect afternoon treat.

I even convinced Batsy Cline to come out of the darkened interior of my backpack to enjoy the view! She went back inside as the sun does burn her skin. 🦇 ☀️

Throughout the day I found myself becoming more and more impressed with Bulgaria.

Its history stretches back thousands of years, making it one of Europe’s oldest continuously inhabited regions. The First Bulgarian Empire emerged in the 7th century and became one of medieval Europe’s most powerful kingdoms. Later, centuries of Ottoman rule shaped much of the country’s history before Bulgaria regained its independence in the late 19th century. Today, those layers of history can still be seen everywhere, from medieval fortresses and centuries-old churches to quiet villages where traditions have endured for generations.

By late afternoon we returned to the Avalon Passion, ready for a little relaxation.

Happy Hour has quickly become one of my favorite daily traditions aboard Avalon. Today’s featured cocktail was called The Cruiser, a refreshing combination of London dry gin, St-Germain elderflower liqueur, fresh lemon juice, almond syrup, and just a hint of Pernod.

I may have found my new favorite cocktail.

After Happy Hour, our cruise director gave tomorrow’s port talk before we headed downstairs for dinner.

Dinner was another excellent meal. I started with the spicy crab cake, followed by a delicate duck consommé. For my main course I chose the filet, cooked perfectly and served alongside some wonderfully creamy mashed potatoes.

Dessert was a dark and white chocolate mousse. It looked beautiful, but it wasn’t my favorite. Fortunately, I sampled Susan’s maple walnut ice cream, and that completely stole the show. Rich, creamy, and full of maple flavor, it was easily the better dessert.

Before ending the evening, I started thinking about that bottle of Bulgarian rose liqueur tucked safely away in my suitcase. I already know exactly what I’ll be making once I’m back home.

Bulgarian Rose Spritz

1½ oz Bulgarian rose liqueur
3 oz Prosecco
2 oz sparkling mineral water or club soda
Ice
Garnish with a lemon wheel and a sprig of fresh mint

Pour the rose liqueur over ice in a large wine glass, top with the Prosecco and sparkling water, stir gently, and garnish with the lemon and mint.

I have a feeling every sip will take me right back to Bulgaria—to the endless sunflower fields, the scent of the boxwoods, the centuries-old churches, and a country that completely exceeded every expectation I had.