This morning we said goodbye to the Avalon Passion, one day earlier than planned.
Because of the historic drought and unusually low water levels on the Danube, our cruise came to an end in Ilok, Croatia, rather than Budapest. While I was disappointed that we couldn’t sail the final stretch of the river, I have to give Avalon a tremendous amount of credit. The people in Ilok told us they hadn’t seen a river cruise ship in over a week because the water was simply too low. The fact that Avalon managed to get us that far upriver is remarkable and speaks volumes about the effort they put into preserving as much of our itinerary as possible.
Our journey to Budapest would be by motorcoach, with a stop in the historic Hungarian city of Pécs.
As we crossed into Hungary, the countryside told the story of one of Europe’s hottest summers. Fields of sunflowers and corn stretched across the landscape, but many were struggling under the relentless heat. Even the grasses along the roadside had turned brown from the lack of rain. It was still beautiful, but I couldn’t help imagining how lush and green these rolling hills must be in a typical summer.
When we arrived in Pécs, our local guide, Erika, greeted us with a smile and said, “Welcome to Pécs. Today is the hottest day on record.”
After spending the morning driving through drought-stricken countryside, I believed her.
Our first stop was the magnificent Pécs Cathedral, officially the Cathedral of Saints Peter and Paul. Stepping inside was like entering another world. The soaring ceilings, colorful artwork, and centuries of history were breathtaking. Then, we were treated to a live organ concert. The enormous pipe organ filled every corner of the cathedral with rich, powerful music. It was one of those travel moments that no photograph or video could ever fully capture. Sometimes the experiences you never planned become the ones you remember most.
Following our visit to the cathedral, Avalon gave each of us €30 to enjoy lunch on our own since we were no longer aboard the ship. We wandered through the charming streets of Pécs, passing several restaurants with outdoor seating before quickly deciding that air conditioning sounded much more appealing than dining in the record-breaking heat.
We settled on the restaurant at the Hotel Palatinus, right in the heart of the city. Lunch was excellent. We all began with a refreshing bowl of gazpacho, which couldn’t have been more perfect for such a hot afternoon. I followed it with grilled chicken breast and zucchini, and it was absolutely delicious. The entire meal cost the equivalent of about $12 U.S., an incredible value for such wonderful food.
After lunch, we had time to wander through the pedestrian streets before returning to the bus. I picked up a couple of bottles of water to help battle the heat and found a Pécs magnet to add to my collection. It’s always nice bringing home a small reminder of places that leave an impression on me.
After our free time, we met our local guide for the short walk back to the motorcoach, where we rejoined our guide for the drive to Budapest. We experienced a small delay before leaving Pécs, but before long we were back on the road for the final leg of our journey.
After what felt like an endless bus ride, we finally arrived in Budapest.
Even after such a long day of traveling, I was so happy I was able to see this beautiful city. The grand architecture, the energy along the Danube, and the history around every corner make it what I think will be one of my favorite cities in Europe.
Rather than joining the included buffet dinner at the Marriott, I had managed to snag us reservations at Konyha, a wonderful restaurant offering a modern take on traditional Hungarian cuisine. It turned out to be one of the best meals of the trip, and that’s saying a lot! We started with warm toasted bread served alongside an assortment of incredible dips that disappeared almost immediately. For my main course, I ordered the chicken paprikash, and it was outstanding. Rich, comforting, and full of flavor! I may need to learn how to make this! The cucumber salad, was a wonderful side, simple and refreshing.
After dinner, we enjoyed a pleasant walk back to the Budapest Marriott, where we’ll be spending our final two nights. The first order of business was a long, cold shower to wash away the miles of bus travel. As exhausted as I was, I couldn’t help feeling excited. Tomorrow I’ll have the chance to explore this beautiful city, and I can’t wait to see what adventures await in Budapest.
Tomorrow is our final full day of this incredible journey through the Balkans, and I have a feeling it’s going to be a memorable one.
Cleared For Take-Off! 