I woke up excited for another day in Serbia. After another wonderful night’s sleep aboard Avalon Passion, I made my way to breakfast. By now, I’ve developed a bit of a routine, and once again I couldn’t resist one of Avalon’s delicious Belgian waffles. They’re quickly becoming one of my favorite breakfast treats on this cruise.
Instead of joining the included guided walking tour of Novi Sad, Elizabeth, Susan, and I decided to spend the morning exploring on our own. One of the things I love most about river cruising is having the freedom to choose how you spend your time in port, and today we were in the mood to simply wander.
After leaving the ship, we walked through the beautiful Danube Park on our way into the heart of the city. The shaded paths, fountains, sculptures, colorful flower beds, and towering old trees made for a peaceful beginning to the day. It was the perfect transition from the quiet of the ship to the charm of Novi Sad.
From there, we made our way to Zmaj Jovina, Novi Sad’s lively pedestrian street. Lined with elegant historic buildings, cafés, local shops, and colorful architecture, it was the perfect place to slow down and simply enjoy our surroundings. Without the rush of a guided tour, we could stop whenever something caught our eye, wander down side streets, and soak in the relaxed atmosphere.
As we explored, we admired several of the city’s beautiful landmarks, including the impressive Name of Mary Church, the elegant City Hall, and the colorful Bishop’s Palace.
One of my favorite discoveries was a small shop specializing in handmade crafts from Novi Sad. Everything inside was beautifully made, but one piece immediately caught my attention. I purchased a framed cross-stitched sampler of the Serbian Cyrillic alphabet for 3,300 Serbian dinars, about $29 USD. I know it will always remind me of this charming city and my time in Serbia.
Of course, all that walking eventually called for a break. We found a little gelato shop, ordered a couple of cups of gelato and a bottle of water, and enjoyed a few quiet minutes out of the sun. One thing that has pleasantly surprised me about Serbia is how affordable it can be. Our little break came to the equivalent of about five dollars.
We eventually made our way back to the ship, grateful for the air conditioning and a chance to cool off before lunch.
Later that afternoon, we traveled to the charming town of Sremski Karlovci, known historically by its German name, Karlowitz. Although it’s only about twenty minutes from Novi Sad, it feels like stepping back into another century. Once an important cultural and religious center for the Serbian people, its quiet streets are filled with beautiful churches, elegant civic buildings, monuments, and reminders of its rich history.
We also passed Our Lady of the Snows Church, never realizing that we were there just one day before its annual August 5 celebration, which commemorates the 1716 Battle of Petrovaradin. Sometimes timing works out in unexpected ways.
By early afternoon, the old Noël Coward lyric kept running through my mind: “Mad dogs and Englishmen go out in the midday sun.” Apparently, the same can be said for one stubborn Floridian! The temperature had climbed to 103°F, and even I had to admit that the Serbian sun had won. Susan may have had the right idea by staying comfortably onboard while the rest of us explored honey and wine in the blazing summer heat.
Our excursion included a visit to a local winery and beekeeping museum, where we sampled seven Serbian wines and three different varieties of honey. I always enjoy trying the local specialties wherever I travel because every region has its own unique flavors.
As it turned out, I learned that Serbian wines simply aren’t my personal preference, and that’s perfectly okay. Every wine region has its own character. The real surprise of the afternoon was the honey. I absolutely loved the sesame honey, which was unlike anything I’d ever tasted. I knew I wanted to bring home a small jar, but after my shopping adventure that morning, I had already spent nearly all of my Serbian dinars. Thankfully, Ginny came to my rescue with a five-euro note so I could take it home. Every time I enjoy that honey, I’ll remember not only Serbia but also the kindness of a good friend.
We also learned that Queen Camilla visited this very winery during her 2016 visit to Serbia, adding another interesting chapter to the story of this family-owned business.
Back aboard Avalon Passion, we had a little time to relax before gathering in the lounge for Serbian passport control. Passengers were called by deck, beginning with Deck 3, then Deck 2, and finally Deck 1. One by one, we stepped forward while Serbian border officials compared our faces to our passport photos. It was a completely manual process, so it took a little while, but before long everyone had been cleared for our overnight sailing into Croatia.
I continue to be impressed by how Avalon has handled the low water levels on the Danube. Considering the drought affecting this region, we’ve been incredibly fortunate. Instead of major disruptions, only one night of our cruise has been moved from the ship to a hotel in Budapest at the very end of our journey. Everything else has remained remarkably close to the original itinerary.
Dinner was another excellent meal. I started with a delicious baby leek soup, followed by bacon-wrapped pork that was perfectly prepared. Instead of choosing something sweet, I finished the evening with the cheese platter, which was the perfect ending to another wonderful day.
After dinner, I returned to my stateroom and decided to get my packing out of the way. Since we’ll be leaving the ship one night earlier than originally planned, I wanted to have everything ready so I could simply enjoy the rest of the cruise without thinking about it.
Tomorrow promises to be another full day, with two guided excursions as we explore Croatia, my next new country on this adventure.
As Avalon Passion quietly slipped away from Serbia under the cover of darkness, I found myself reflecting on what a wonderful surprise this country has been. From the fascinating history of Belgrade to the relaxed charm of Novi Sad and the timeless beauty of Sremski Karlovci, Serbia has exceeded my expectations in every way.
Goodbye, Serbia. Thank you for the warm welcome, beautiful memories, and a jar of unforgettable sesame honey. Hello, Croatia! 🇷🇸➡️🇭🇷
Cleared For Take-Off! 