Edinburgh has a way of feeling like several worlds rolled into one, and today we experienced them all.
The morning began with a Harry Potter walking tour, and for a few hours, it felt as though we had stepped right into the pages of the books. We wound our way through the Greyfriars Kirkyard, where gravestones provided names you’d recognize instantly, and looked up at the school nearby with its four houses—a real-life echo of Hogwarts. We paused outside the café where J.K. Rowling once sat with her notebook and a cup of coffee, and wandered into shops, including a little herb store that seemed straight out of a potions lesson. Then, of course, came the cobbled street that inspired Diagon Alley, bustling with the same quirky energy you’d imagine from the films. I couldn’t resist—tucked away in a shop, I found a copy of the very first Harry Potter book written entirely in Scots, a treasure I’ll always keep as a reminder of this day.
No Potter-themed adventure would be complete without a stop at the Elephant House. The original location, often called the “birthplace of Harry Potter,” is being refurbished after a fire, but a new Elephant House has reopened right on the very street said to have inspired Diagon Alley. Sitting there with a butterbeer laced with whisky in hand and a baked potato generously topped with bacon, sour cream, and cheddar, I couldn’t help but smile. It was comfort food with a touch of magic, and exactly what the day called for.
After some shopping along the Royal Mile, our steps carried us down to the Palace of Holyroodhouse. The grandeur of the palace is striking, but its history is even more fascinating. Founded in the 12th century as a monastery, Holyrood later became a royal residence and was home to Mary, Queen of Scots, during some of the most dramatic chapters of her reign. Walking through the grounds, with the ruins of Holyrood Abbey beside us, I was struck by the way Edinburgh balances so effortlessly between its vibrant present and its storied past.
Dinner that evening was at The Botanist, and it quickly became one of our favorite meals of the trip. The atmosphere was bright and welcoming, filled with greenery and a buzz of conversation. I began with a strawberry martini topped with prosecco—refreshing and playful—before trying a scotch egg, a dish with centuries of history. First created in England in the 1700s as a hearty traveler’s snack, it’s still a perfect bite: crisp on the outside with a warm, soft egg at its center. For my main course, I tucked into their “ultimate” chicken sandwich, and it truly earned its name. Delicious food, paired with laughter among friends, made for the kind of evening you don’t want to end.
But end it did—with a twist. Several of us decided to cap the night with a haunted tour of Edinburgh. As darkness settled over the city, we found ourselves back at Greyfriars Kirkyard, only this time under the glow of lanterns. The stories of restless spirits seemed to cling to the shadows of the ancient stones. From there, we descended into the underground vaults—chilly, damp, and utterly haunting. Once home to taverns, tradesmen, and the city’s poorest, these stone chambers are now best known for their ghostly legends. It was easy to imagine why they might have inspired Rowling’s vision of the underground vaults of Gringotts.
By the time we emerged back into the night air, I felt like I had lived three lifetimes in a single day—wandering through magic, royalty, and the supernatural. Edinburgh doesn’t just show you its history, it makes you feel it, and tonight, as I fell asleep, I couldn’t help but think: this city really does know how to cast a spell.
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